COYA Barcelona At The W Barcelona, Spain | By Anuja Gaur | Publisher Luxurylifestylemag 

Many clocks ring a rather different tick of hours in the sensual Catalonian city of Barcelona, where golden orange tinted afternoons melt shamelessly into champagne drenched sunsets right as polished superyachts shimmer across the Mediterranean, and impossibly well-dressed revellers drift between rooftop revelries, coveted dining rooms and velvet roped cocktail sanctuaries.

Whilst Gothic grandeur and Gaudí’s audacious imagination may shape the city’s celebrated skyline, beneath those architectural marvels beats a far more seductive rhythm wrapped up in razor sharp tailoring, oversized sunglasses and an unapologetic appetite for the more, sparkly luxe trip in life.

Along the gleaming sweep of Passeig de Gràcia, the illustrious façades of Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès and Loewe transform luxury shopping into a beautifully choreographed spectacle, while glamorous palace hotels, panoramic rooftop lounges and discreet members’ hideaways play gracious host to Barcelona’s impeccably dressed international set.

Here, gastronomy borders on obsession, pursued with a devotion that rivals the city’s admiration for La Sagrada Família itself, as impeccably plated cuisine, ice cold cocktails and magnetic company become the true social currency of the Mediterranean elite.

It is within this intoxicating playground of flamboyant fashion, bold flavour and spirited indulgence that COYA Barcelona has written its next tropical, spice fuelled chapter.

Created from a desire to celebrate Peru’s remarkably rich Incan culinary heritage through a daring contemporary lens, the concept marries authentic Latin American soul with meticulous Japanese artistry, unveiling vividly colour drenched creations where fearless flavours, and meticulous technique perform in glorious unison.

Equal parts haute cuisine destination and glamorous cocktail sanctuary, the sensual dining destination of COYA Barcelona revels in a deliciously modern philosophy where each plate arrives to the table impeccably composed, alongside a perfectly shaken attire of earthy floral Pisco Sours as every infectious rhythm encourages guests to surrender wholeheartedly to the moment, proving that in Barcelona a dinner encounter is rather rarely limited to just the table.

The hedonistic COYA tale was never destined to be sitting politely within the four walls of an orthodox fine dining room, born on Piccadilly in 2012 under the venturesome eye, of major nouvelle cuisine maven Arjun Waney.

A formidable hospitality visionary behind Zuma and The Arts Club, the seductive COYA Modus vivendi concept had arrived with a ravenous appetite for thrilling adventure, and a clear mission to bottle the fire of Latin America into an ultra luxury lifestyle experience, capable of travelling the glittering globe without ever losing its beating pulse.

Its Mayfair debut swiftly became a magnet for the capital’s café society, introducing contemporary flavours rooted in Peru’s treasured Incan heritage through a lavishly theatrical lens, where intricate aesthetics mingled with vivacious social energy illustrating a wholesome yet serene cuisine affair, all carrying true authenticity at its core yet every plate was sharpened with courtly panache and enough visual swagger to satisfy a boujee clientele, accustomed to their dinner arriving camera ready.

That high octane marriage of gastronomy and glamorous revelry soon proved far too seductive to remain a London secret, as COYA began scattering its unmistakable Latin spirit across some of the world’s most sybaritic playgrounds, from the billionaire gloss of Monte Carlo to the sapphire-washed party shores of Mykonos, before bringing a fresh poolside incarnation to Marbella and injecting its spirited savoir faire into Dubai’s unabashed, aristo universe.

What began as a London dining adventure has since matured into a global invitation to live a little louder, eat considerably better and surrender to the infectious warmth of contemporary Latin culture, with Barcelona therefore feeling less like another pin on the map and more like a deliciously natural next chapter, ready to dress COYA’s Peruvian soul in an altogether more Mediterranean kind of glamour.

Perched above Barcelona’s glistening waterfront on the first floor of the W Barcelona, COYA’s 900 square metre pleasure den has been lavished with an unapologetically exotic getup that seems to transport its well-heeled invitees thousands of miles from Catalonia, landing them somewhere between the faded splendour of an old Lima drinking haunt and a wickedly glamorous, Latin American nightspot.

The creative handiwork belongs to London based Sagrada, founded by David d’Almada whose design vision alongside Richard Saunders and senior interior designer Andrea Ginetto, has helped sculpt the distinctive ‘Inca punk’ identity running through COYA’s sybaritic clan, marrying the beautifully weathered with the brazenly opulent in a manner that feels deliberately imperfect, and all the more seductive for it.

Stepping inside revealed a richly layered colour palette that positively smouldered beneath the low light, with oxblood reds and burnt terracotta hues entwined amongst flashes of antique gold, vivid turquoise and deep jungle green. Heavily carved Peruvian woods brought a dark, handsome depth to the setting, while buttery leather panelling and plush velvet seating injected a sumptuous tactile richness against weathered surfaces deliberately allowed to flaunt their age.

Metallic leaf finishes glimmered across columns and walls, whilst hand painted Peruvian inspired murals brought a streak of artistic theatre to the backdrop, and eclectic South American antiques nestled amongst illuminated shelving as lush tropical foliage tumbled from overhead structures, creating the delicious illusion of an ancient Incan hideaway that had been given one outrageously chic, nocturnal makeover.

Holding glamorous court within this shadowy labyrinth was the Pisco Bar and Lounge, conceived as a lavish homage to the oldest drinking dens of Lima and serving as the high energy gateway into COYA’s considerably more mischievous side. Its colossal backlit display wall rose behind the bar like a glowing altar to Peru’s native spirit, lined with oversized glass vessels harbouring the restaurant’s house matured seasonal Pisco infusions, including raspberry with hibiscus and a fiery spicy mango, turning the very ingredients behind the cocktail list into a striking decorative spectacle of their own.

An integrated DJ booth sat proudly within the action, primed for COYA MUSIC selectors to pepper the atmosphere with pulsating mixes, while the clever wizardry of The Lighting Design Studio, supported by Rako’s architectural mood controls, allowed the entire space to gradually deepen from its brighter dining guise into an amber washed, deliciously moody lounge as nightfall beckoned.

Yet my own evening was destined to play out across COYA’s bounteous 317 square metre waterfront terrace, where the dark Latin sensuality of the interiors gave way to a breezier, sun kissed interpretation of the brand’s lavish aesthetic.

Polished timber decking stretched beneath custom wooden slat pergolas, generously proportioned low-slung armchairs and curved wooden dining chairs came plumped with soft neutral cushions, while deeper lounge pockets dressed in tactile sofas appeared expressly designed for those leisurely, Mediterranean evenings.

Towering palms and cascading tropical greenery wrapped around the terrace in luxuriant abundance, cocooning our table from the public boardwalk below while framing the hypnotic expanse of the Mediterranean beyond, its blue waters glittering beneath the dying Catalan sunshine. 

But it was the sultry milieu of outdoor Pisco Bar that provided the alfresco setting with its own dose of Latin sass, boldly dressed in intricate stamped metallic panelling beneath an imposing timber framework, alongside an array of oversized teardrop woven pendants dangling overhead, casting shapely shadows across the bar.

Refusing to let its ravishing Inca punk good looks steal the entire show, COYA Barcelona has armed itself with a decadently innovative menu bustling with the treasured authentic elements of Peruvian cooking, paired with a collection of sensual, photogenic cocktail creations dramatically shaken up by their handsome mixologist entourage.

Billed as a multisensory voyage through Latin America, the culinary philosophy takes the country’s ceviches, tiraditos and flame licked anticuchos to bestow them with a contemporary artistic flourish, resulting in an extravagant parade of vivid colour, pristine seafood and charcoal kissed indulgence that looks every inch as ravishing as the waterfront setting surrounding it.

Before a single morsel could reach the table, however, COYA’s liquid temptations demanded attention at the outdoor Pisco Bar where the evening began with its signature Pisco Sour. Presented beneath a pillowy crown of snow-white foam proudly stamped with the COYA insignia, the pale golden concoction blended proprietary COYA Pisco with freshly squeezed lime, sugar and egg white, before a traditional dash of aromatic Angostura bitters sharpened its silken composition.

The result slipped across the palate with a creamy softness before that bright citrus acidity cut through the sweetness, leaving the Pisco’s distinctive warmth to linger rather agreeably behind. Modelled upon the historic, lively bars of Lima, this was no place for timid pouring either with the suave, energetic bar maestros not even a tad shy in brazenly flexing their bar muscle power, in a dose of mixologist theatrics to their couture clad guests.

Settled into my alfresco throne for the extravagant Inca set menu, a flute of NV Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label swiftly materialised its streams of fine bubbles carrying crisp orchard fruit and delicate brioche notes, before finishing with an elegant citrus freshness proving a particularly fetching accomplice to the first culinary procession. Beginning with COYA’s tableside guacamole, ripe avocado was crushed and tossed before us with charred tomato, red onion and lime, creating a buttery, zesty medley scooped greedily onto feather thin corn tortillas, that shattered with each bite.

The Tostada con Tartare de Res brought a considerably richer personality, its hand cut beef fillet revealing a supple, almost melting texture enlivened by the fiery fruitiness of ají rocoto and the sumptuous gloss of egg yolk.

Chicharrones de Calamares soon followed with plump baby squid wrapped in a delicate golden crunch, their gentle sweetness perked up by jalapeño and the herbaceous freshness of salsa verde before a squeeze of lime delivered a final citrus jolt. Equally toothsome were the Tacos de Shiitake, where earthy mushrooms nestled against creamy avocado, lively chalaquita and salty feta crumble, proving that the meat free contingent had certainly not been relegated to culinary afterthought.

Before the last golden Champagne drop could even contemplate being sipped, my debonair host magically reappeared, bottle poised and witty grin firmly in place, replenishing my flute with another generous Veuve Clicquot pour before COYA’s celebrated raw bar began its own jewel hued seduction.

The Ceviche Picante de Atún was a ravishing little firecracker, with ruby toned yellowfin tuna glossed in chilli and ponzu uncovering a clean richness punctuated by nutty sesame, and the addictive crackle of crispy rice whilst the Ceviche de Coco played the more voluptuous counterpart, with tender sea bass luxuriating in a creamy coconut dressing brightened by ginger and lime, right as the crisp plantain serving brought a welcome textural snap against the silken fish.

Completing the raw affair was Tiradito de Hamachi, its beautifully sliced yellowtail carrying that prized butter soft mouthfeel before green chilli supplied a clean flicker of heat, daikon added freshness and tiny pearls of tobiko popped saltily across the palate.

Another Veuve Clicquot top up heralded the arrival of the heartier proceedings, led by Langostinos Tigre, where hearty meaty tiger prawns arrived plump and juicy beneath a glossy chilli salsa, with soy bringing savoury depth and lemon slicing cleanly through the richness as the The Solomillo de Res Picante proved equally robust, its beef fillet yielding beneath the knife to reveal succulent flesh enriched by a spicy savour, with crisp shallot uncovering a brittle golden contrast against the spirited acidic hit of fine, pickled chilli.

COYA’s accompaniments had demonstrated outright refusal to behave like supporting acts, as Arroz Chaufa channelled Peru’s Chinese culinary influence through a comforting helping of stir fried rice studded with seasonal vegetables and egg, each spoonful carrying a deeply savoury wok kissed character, while the COYA Chips were golden little temptresses with crisp exteriors giving way to clouds of soft fluffed potato, made considerably naughtier by smoky tomato and the creamy, gently spiced richness of huancaína.

Any sensible intention of calling it an evening was then swiftly vetoed back at the outdoor bar, where Barcelona’s skies had transformed into a deep ebony canopy against the twinkling marina and the DJ had revved the atmosphere up another pulsating notch.

COYA’s Madre Tierra cocktail collection took its inspiration from Peru’s wildly contrasting landscapes, journeying from the citrus bright, umami kissed flavours of the Pacific coast through the warming spice of the Andean Sierra and deep into the tropical abundance of the Amazonian Selva, allowing environment and native ingredients to dictate each liquid creation.

From this rather exotic catalogue came the HAY-AGUA-SKA, a fluorescent vision that appeared almost electrically illuminated within its vividly patterned vessel. Barajas Tequila and Eminente Claro Rum formed its spirited backbone, while COYA’s house macerated chilli and mango Pisco supplied an untamed tropical heat, softened by pandan before kalamansi cut through with a piercing citrus brightness. Aromatic and unabashedly exotic, it was precisely the sort of cocktail destined to provoke a little green-eyed envy once photographed beneath the bar lights.

My evermore faithful Cosmopolitan inevitably followed, just as the waterfront slipped fully into its nocturnal guise and the terrace began buzzing with a decidedly more animated crowd. Between another slick flourish from the bar team and the DJ’s increasingly infectious selections, my attempted departure had somehow been negotiated into one final nightcap, leaving COYA to conclude its Peruvian feast exactly as it had begun, with handsome pours, spirited hospitality and enough Latin sass to make an early retreat feel rightfully criminal.

In a nutshell

A heady collision of Peruvian soul and Barcelona’s unapologetic appetite for the good life, COYA has swaggered onto the Catalan social scene with all the confidence of a seasoned bon vivant, serving up a deliciously seductive world where haute gastronomy, liquid artistry and nocturnal mischief are permitted to mingle without a whisper of restraint.

Extravagantly lavishly sans sacrificing its true-blue warmth and glamorous enough to satisfy a crowd who consider an immaculate dinner merely the opening chapter of their evening, COYA Barcelona has mastered a particularly seductive breed of modern luxury, where the haute-monde appetite extends considerably beyond what lands upon the plate, seducing instead with an entire lifestyle of spirited excess, beautiful company and that unmistakable Latin joie de vivre.

For the city’s couture-clad pleasure seekers, epicurean adventurers and committed night owls, this is Peruvian escapism served with its collar loosened, its Pisco generously poured and its pulse set firmly to Barcelona after dark.

Factbox

Address: W Barcelona, Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1, 1st floor, Ciutat Vella, 08039 Barcelona, Spain
Phone: +34 933 568 034
Website: coyarestaurant.com